Who gains from saving nature
Ledger 1 : 33 — For each dollar financing nature-based solutions in 2023, about $33 financed activities harmful to nature. (UNEP)
Cases / Biotech, cloning and de-extinction · Germany · 2016

adidas unveiled a shoe prototype made from AMSilk spider-silk fibre

Short record: the main facts, with sources. A full case file has not been prepared.

Nature's voice · report
No measurement of the harm done to me here is on record.
Did nature suffer? Not measured.
Not on record
  • The record does not name which of my species, waters, soils or forests were harmed.
What the record lacks: 1 none on record · 4 insufficient · 1 not measured See the gaps

A 2016 adidas Futurecraft Biofabric prototype was made from AMSilk's bacterially produced silk fibre, and no retail sale is recorded in the sources reviewed. At stake for nature is whether the fibre can replace conventional materials at a scale that changes their land and resource use, a question the sources do not settle.

What?
adidas unveiled a Futurecraft Biofabric shoe prototype made from AMSilk's Biosteel fibre, in November 2016. Munich Startup
Where?
Germany (AMSilk and adidas) Munich Startup
When?
Prototype unveiled November 2016; funding rounds in 2021, 2023 and September 2025 Munich Startup
Who?
Gained
  • AMSilk — Raised 29 million euros in 2021, 25 million in 2023 and 52 million euros in September 2025 AMSilk
Lost
None on record
Harmed
None on record
Why?
Not stated in the sources reviewed.
How?
Bacterial fermentation to make a spider-silk protein fibre called Biosteel; production contracted to partners such as Evonik and Ajinomoto AMSilk
6 of 6 questions answered from the record

What happened

The record, in order.

In November 2016 adidas unveiled a Futurecraft Biofabric shoe prototype made from AMSilk's Biosteel fibre, Munich Startup reported.

The sources reviewed record no retail sale of the shoe.

AMSilk said it raised 29 million euros in 2021, 25 million in 2023 and 52 million euros in September 2025, and it does not disclose tonnage or revenue.

A 2022 systematic review found that no spider-silk company had reached commercial sale, citing unstable gene sequences, low yield and costly purification.

    In court and with insurers

    Every proceeding and every insurer decision on record.

    Lawsuits and rulings

    No court case on record. No court has ruled on this case.

    Insurers

    No insurer decision on record.

    What we don't know

    Undisclosed, unproven, untried: recorded as data.

    Nature

    • Not measured Harm to nature: The record holds no measurement of harm to nature.

    Record

    • Insufficient Reported but not verified: AMSilk sold its cosmetics unit to Givaudan in 2019.
    • Insufficient Reported but not verified: AMSilk's research originates with a Bayreuth University scientist.
    • Insufficient Reported but not verified: reports at the time said the shoe would go on sale in 2017.
    • Insufficient Reported but not verified: a 2016 techno-economic model put industrial prices at 38 to 127 US dollars per kg; a 2026 study put bacterial minimum sale prices at about 15 to 88 US dollars per kg; competing synthetic fibres cost roughly 5 to 25 US dollars per kg.
    • None on record Not known: AMSilk's tonnage, revenue and the volumes produced by its partners.

    Did the harm stop?

    Not stated in the sources reviewed.

    Who paid?

    Not stated in the sources reviewed.

    Sources

    Voices on record: ✓ Company or project— Government and regulators— Courts✓ Press and investigations— Communities and civil society— Researchers

    Press and investigations

    1. AMSilk wins adidas as partner
      Munich Startup · December 2016

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